Day 5: Still hungry?? Our Last Day :(

After only being here for a few days we could really stay a whole lot longer! The food and wine scene is really way more amazing than we expected... not a bad thing we were just pleasantly surprise! This morning we woke up with the sun and having no schedule to follow until 11 we decided to walk around the city center of Ensenada... The same center than was hustling and bustling last night with the sounds of hot dog and taco vendors and dance music blaring from the local bars and clubs. At around 11 Aldo came to pick us up for our last day in BAJA. We started at a local favorite fresh fish cart which prides themselves on the freshest fish and all homemade sauces buy the owner. This little old woman who was an absolute delight greeted us with tostadas, fish, seafood, avocado slices, homemade chili and nut sauces and didn't miss a beat from our last bite of one thing to the first bite of the next. It was like being in Bubby's house... NEVER GO HUNGRY!! After our amazing feast we were on our way yet again to taste some incredible wines from more local smaller vineyards. After more wines guess where we are headed? You guessed it! LUNCH! We went to a restaurant on a farm called La Querencia. Owned my a fisherman, hunter, farmer, chef and all together a down to earth cool guy. We sat and ate course after course with his family and friends. Lunch included incredible seafood that he had caught that morning in cabo, and of course I can't forget about the lamb roasting outside that he caught earlier from his uncles farm just up the street. We ate and drank until I had to let loose my top button... but that wasn't stopping me! We topped off dinner with his homemade mezcal that had been soaking with a rattlesnake for the past 15 years. Yep I said it... RATTLESNAKE! They drown the snake in the mezcal until it releases all of its venom then they take it out, clean it and put it back in to age 15 years. Apparently its an ancient Mayan ritual... I was not about to pass up trying something like that! It had an erie calmness to it that gave you a buzz like nothing alcohol could ever do. It was a very cool experience to share in something like this with these people in Baja that love food, drinking and friends as much as we do. After lunch we were off to dinner... you think im kidding... IM NOT! We stopped into a local Tijuana restaurant called Cesear's and believe it or not this was the birthplace for the CESEAR SALAD!! The food was fantastic and the company was even better. Tomorrow we fly home but it has already been decided that we will be back! This place is busting at the seams with incredible culture and food and we have so much more to explore! Next trip I will bring my stretchy pants cause boy do we know how to eat!!

Day 4: we don't wine

Day 4 was long but well with it! 845 and we were packed and ready to go. First stop was to Vinicola Hacienda La Lomita and Quinta Monasterio wineries guides by winemaker Reynaldo Rodriguez. He was very laid back and very knowledgable. He helps several wineries in the valley set up their production and he has his own facility as well. We then made our way to baron balche winery and were guide by the winemaker through a fantastic tasting and one of the best granache varietals we had ever tasted. It's around 130 pm... Bellys full of wine and we are ready to eat! We went to a well known restaurant in gudaloupe valley called Laja. It was one of the most incredible tasting menus we have ever had (9 courses). Each course was so incredible it would take a month to write about it so he is a list of the fresh simple yet perfectly prepared food. We started with an heirloom tomato salad with celery root and micro arugula and basil, then a Carrot and orange gazpacho. For our next set of courses we had Ensenada Blue fin tuna carpaccio with preserved kumquat, cucumber, and avocado, next was shaved abalone with fresh herbs and a fresh ratatouille foloowed by Eggplant Ravioli. For our main courses we had Pan roasted Mahi mahi with creamy piquillo pepper, zucchini, bok Choy and calf's feet vinaigrette then Sonoran steak with potato gnocchi and Swiss chard. Don't forget about dessert! We started with a sorbet trio of Cabernet, peach and apple. Then we moved on to and finished with a Fig tartlet with goat cheese ice cream topped with toasted almonds. Not only was the food fantastic and all of the vegetables grown on the premesis, the wine pairings were spot on and the service / attention to detail were not forgotten. Afterwards we visited Casa De Piedra winery guided by the winemaker and second to Hugo the wine guru in this area. On our drive back to our hotel in Ensenada we stop at one of their look out points for a complete view of the city and aside from the fog it was really stunning. Some free time to walk around and enjoy the city before we meet and eat the owner of the oldest French restaurant in the city called El Ray Sol. They have had some famous and political guests, several awards and honors and very traditional decor to the original feel of French cuisine that his mother used to prepare when she originally opened in 1947. Back at the hotel now and crashed out. We were exhausted but it was so amazing that we want to be ready for whatever comes out way for tomorrow ... Our last day :(

Day 3: Queso what are we doing today? No Whey?!?

What a magnificent day! To wake up in the most serene villa could have been enough! We hopped in our suv for another exciting day. First we went to the Cava del Queso (cheese cave) in ojos Negros valley. The owner of passed generations took us through the amazing process of how they make cheese, cream and butter. After the grand tour we were taken into a wooden 2 level cave where the cheese was aged behind humidifier glass. The center of the room was set with over 10 sampling of his finest and most aged cheeses particular to this region of Baja. Our next stop was a winery in Ojos Negros valley owned the regionally famous Hussong Family. Ricardo Hussong himself took us on a tour of the winery tasting through new and unreleased vintages. We were delighted by the presence of his son Louis who studied in culinary school in napa and cooked and prepared for us a 6 course meal that yet again I could have licked my plate clean. What an experienece to be able to have lunch with the vintner himself and his family in their home! Not to mention that it was in his cantina in Ensenada that the margarita was first created! Back to our hotel now for a little r&r before going to a little restaurant called la manzanilla to meet with the chef and do a tasting of modem Ensenada cuisine... And of course we cannot finish the night without having at least 1 margherita at Hussongs!!!

Day 2: I don't want to taco about it

We started off the day in santo tomas valley at one of the oldest vineyard/wineries in all of north America. We toured the vineyard with one of the most knowledgable guides. Ivan talked us through over 10 wines and over 30 varietals. We entered an underground wine cave with barrels full of the labor of 45-65 year old vines and were able to taste, blend and discuss. After our magnificent tour we made our way back to our hotel... But first we MUST stops for some street pescado tacos!! Around 5pm we arrived at Villa del Valle. Wow! The most relaxing, stunning and the most romantic place in the world! From the outdoor pools built between existing rocks, the yoga studio and the stunning rooms with balconies we were in heaven! We went for a quick swim and then were seated for the most spectacular meal! Everything we ate was fresh from their garden prepared simply and paired with the couples fantastic wines called VENA CAVA. The first course was watermelon gazpacho with heirloom tomatoes, papaya, baby arugula, and micro-basil topped with a chile oil that let you know this chef knew exactly how to impress us with culinary artistry and seasonal simplicity in the same breath. Next, an ocean fresh yellowtail tartare with prickly pear, mango, sesame, avocado and nori. An astonishing harmony of sweet salty and umami. The main course was locally farmed quail with a fig chutney local squash and baby chard. All perfectly cooked.... And outrageous!  We ended with the appropriate foil of lavender creme brûlée and Cabernet Sauvignon granite, both grown within view on this idyllic property and both sending us on our way to a night of blissful, sated sleep.

We woke up  at 5 am because of course we are still jet lagged! Did an hour of yoga, swam, then had an equally as delicious freshly prepared breakfast of eggs from the coup outside and fabulous homemade granola! (I may have snuck a bit in my bag for later:))

Day 1: TJ to Ensenada

Having never been to Mexico we are obviously thrilled that we have been sent. Our itinerary packed with amazing food experiences leaves nothing to be desired! Our guide and head of Mexico Tourism for Baja, Aldo, drove us on the old wine country road through the mountains to Ensenada. Every curve and every turn unveiled gorgeous landscapes that definitely felt like and old world wine country. On our drive we drove past the Coronado Islands... Rumor has it that Al Capone would store his liquor there! 
We went to a great place for lunch in a resort called Rincon De Martin and had some French style Mexican fare.

Around  4pm we arrived at Adobe Gudalupe. A couple from America moved here over ten years ago when there were only 12 wineries and built a vineyard, horse stable, a home and a life for themselves. Now Baja Has over 55 wineries, not to mention that one of them happens to be the oldest winery in all the Americas producing vintages as far back as the fifteen hundreds! Adobe Gudaloupe is a gorgeous estate that half is the couples home and rest are guest houses. We got settled in then went for a swim and tasted their Rhone style Rose by the pool in the vineyard. Soon after we were dressed and seated once again for another decadent 4 course meal. We sat with the Millers, the manager, horse trainer and everyone else important to running an operation like this, in the Millers' dinning room. Cozy and warm with dim lighting Mr miller popped several of his fabulous vintages to pair with our meal. Starting with our first course we had a cream based mussel soup paired with an unoaked Chardonnay. Second we had a watermelon and green salad topped with Proscuitto and blue cheese. Third we had swordfish that had been seared with Rosemary and garlic then topped with a spicy cream sauce. This course was accompanied by wild rice with fresh poblanos and roasted summer vegetables and was paired with the estates phenomenal wines, the first a Rhone-style red, and the last named Rafael, a beautiful Nebbiolo/Cabernet blend. 

Day 1

Just landed in Saint Diego (don't see Ron burgundy anywhere!) it's gorgeous weather. Now enroute to to Tijuana for our first taste of Mexico. Stay tuned... Not a bad picture for 2 days no sleep

Bon Appétit in Baja...

Off we go on our 3rd culinary adventure... This time to with Bon Appétit to Baja California to taste all the wine and food Mexicali has to offer. Stay tuned to more updates from us and Bon Appétit magazine on facebook and twitter.